This year is Lanvin‘s 125th anniversary, and to help mark the achievement during Paris Fashion Week, editors were invited to view the office of Jeanne Lanvin, which sits right above the company’s Rue du Faubourg St Honoré store.
Thanks to some clever marketing and Phoebe Philo’s unofficial endorsement, Adidas’s classic style — which relaunched in January after a three-year hiatus — has been the must-have of Fall 2014 Fashion Month. Read my report at Fashionista.com.
Dries Van Noten‘s designs are singular. He certainly creates trends and finds himself in the midst of them, but his work is his and his alone. It’s very rare to look at one of his pieces and recall another designer. Which is why his “Inspiration” exhibit, which opens March 1 at the Musée des Arts Décoratif in Paris, is so compelling. I spoke with Barneys’ Mark Lee — whose department store is sponsoring the exhibit — and curator Pamela Golbin, for Fashionista.com.
NEW YORK, United States ”I had a desire to do a shop unlike any shop I had ever seen,” says Steven Alan of opening his first store on Wooster Street, in New York’s Soho, in 1994. Today, a slew of tightly edited multi-brand stores dot the cityâs retail landscape, from Opening Ceremony to the newly-opened Dover Street Market, not to mention Alan’s own stores, which carry a curated selection of clothing, accessories, apothecary and homeware. But at the time, 20 years ago, Alan’s idea of a multi-brand concept store stocking emerging designers was completely new. Read more at Business of Fashion.
A chance to meet Raf Simons, Nicolas GhesquiÃ¨re and Anna Wintour in one fell swoop? Indeed, Wednesday night was a bit of a fairytale for the 30 young designers selected to compete in the first-ever LVMH Prize, a grant that includes 300,000 euros as well as a year’s worth of business support from the luxury conglomerate.
Have you watched “House of Cards” yet? I did. And while I have a lot to say about the actual plot, you can go read critiques from actual TV critics somewhere else. Like Twitter. Instead, I’d like to briefly discuss the wardrobing situation.
To say that there are a lot of egos involved is certainly an understatement. Editors have skipped shows because they didn’t like their assigned seats, or walked out because they were seated behind someone who they felt was “below” them in magazine ranking. I’ve never been particularly obsessed with where I’m seated. Maybe that’s because I started attending the European shows pretty early in my career, when standing was often the best an online outlet was going to get. Now, I generally sit, and sometimes in a very good seat. Which is nice, but doesn’t make or break my desire to attend and cover the shows. You can still feel the energy from the fourth row. Or even the tenth.
But I have always been fascinated by the politics of seating, and the way some people get so riled up over their place in the scheme of things. Which is why last night’s Marc Jacobs show was such a moment. The maze-like formatting meant that everyone was sitting front row, which meant everyone’s ego was soothed. (And if it wasn’t, then they certainly need to A. get the heck out of fashion, or B. seek professional help.)
Jacobs has a lot riding on this collection: it was his first after departing Louis Vuitton, where he was artistic director for more than a decade. It was also his only: Marc by Marc Jacobs is now designed by Luella Bartley and Emma Hill, two Brits with just the kind of energy to refresh the contemporary label, which had gone flat over the past few years. Sure, that line is still under Jacobs’ watch, but last night was his one chance — this season, at least — to deliver his direct message. Giving front-row access to the whole lot meant that we got to see the clothes and accessories very much for what they really were. And for a designer who is planning an initial public offering over the next couple of years, it was a chance to make everyone in that room feel like they were inside Marc Jacobs’ world. The audience members — who were Instagramming up a storm — are his evangelizers.
By the way, when I first received my ticket, I definitely thought it said Row I, not Row 1. I would’ve still enjoyed it.
I launched the Fashionista 50 in 2011 as a way to showcase the personalities we often discuss and interview on Fashionista.com. When I returned as the site’s editor at large in 2013, we brought it back. Here’s the third iteration, which I think appropriately reflects the state of the industry here in New York. Lots of greatness going on here.
Dan and Lauren welcome special in-studio guest Elizabeth Monson, discussing Lauren’s horrible Zara shopping experience, Target collabs, ear selfies and Instagram e-commerce, and Dan reviews Starkweather’s excellent organic beard oil.
Last year, the Council of Fashion Designers of America tapped the Boston Consulting Group to help define its mission for the next half-decade. Today, BoF can exclusively reveal the key elements of the CFDA’s new strategy, built around education, partnerships, local manufacturing and, of course, revamping New York Fashion Week. Read my story at Businessoffashion.com.
Take ownership of that whole, ”new year, new you” cliche by checking out these notable — but most importantly, useful —beauty apps and websites, which offer everything from at-home hair and makeup to a rarefied shopping experience. See my picks at Fashionista.com.
Once one of the world’s most successful specialty retailers, Gap has been mired in decline for over a decade. Following a series of cost-cutting measures, will the arrival of creative director Rebekka Bay and a new focus on product help the American retail giant get back on its feet? Read my piece for the Business of Fashion.
Fashion houses have reigned in rampant licensing since the 1990s. But in an era when social media lets us see what’s going on around the globe at every moment, do they need to do more? Read my take at Fashionista.com.
Retailers want to be able to gather the same data that they gather online at their brick-and-mortar stores. Now, thanks to smartphones, retailers are increasingly able to track your every move. Read my story at Fashionista.com.
It’s really fun to talk to a fashion person who’s not afraid of other fashion people. I spoke with A.P.C. founder Jean Touitou last week about Karl Lagerfeld, Kanye West, the 2nd Avenue Deli and what he likes to call “prostitute fashion”. Read the interview at Elle.com.
The outlook isn’t great right now for so-called “teen” retailers. We polled teenagers from across the country — and a Wall Street analyst, too — about why they think the Abercrombies, Aeropostales and American Eagles of the world aren’t doing so well.
No brand before or after it captured the zeitgeist quite like Juicy Couture. So why did a business with almost $500 million in annual revenue sell this autumn in a $195 million cash deal to a licensing group better known for working with brands like Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley? I spoke to Juicy Couture’s founders, as well as its former and current owners for Business of Fashion.
Eight years after its launch, PurseForum remains one of the most active shopping communities on the web. We meet a few of its most loyal members, whose closets contain millions of dollars worth of handbags.
If you do plan on shopping this Friday, there are ways to do it without stressing yourself out too much — or physically and mentally harassing others. Loved researching this one with Mark Ellwood for Fashionista.com.
I spoke to archivist Julie Ann Orsini—who works with Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler and Jason Wu, amongst others—as well as Vogue's Hamish Bowles and the house of Dior about what makes fashion archives so valuable to brands.
Ten years ago, pop-up shops were wholly considered a passing trend. Yet nearly a decade after Comme Des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo launched her “guerrilla” stores in cities across Europe, the concept is still going strong.
Over the past decade, ready-to-wear designers have really gone for the bridal market: it’s a relatively stable segment of fashion that doesn’t require a ton of innovation. (After all, people always get married, even during recessions, and even if tastes are changing, most are never going to want something too avant garde.) I dove deep into it all for the Business of Fashion. Read the story here.
Hey, in-studio guests! Dan and Lauren chat with Claire Mazur and Erica Cerulo, co-founders of Of A Kind, about running an e-commerce startup, Apple’s new iPads, and design around the world. (Bonus! Use offer code NEEDLE for $10 off at Of a Kind.)
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